This last summer I have gotten the amazing chance to surf everyday. I came in loving the ocean, but not really understanding it much, because I did not spend much time in it, to having it be where I find my sanity.
I live on the beach the last 3 months and during this time, I have learned how the ocean works, I have seen, touched, licked, and stepped on things around and in the ocean. I get it. It is a part of me. I have picked up surfing pretty fast I'd say. I have gotten frustrated, sad, jealous, and completely joyful with surfing. How you surf is how your attitude is that day, and most of the time I get out in the water and I will see how I'm really feeling by the way I'm surfing.
I have been spoiled by surfing at some really neat places. I have learned to get through some freaking huge waves. I have seen a shark about a hundred yards away. I have surfed with dolphins give or take 5 feet away from me, along with taking a party wave with a dolphin.
I have realized that I have worked really hard at surfing and when get in the water the world fades away. I don't care who is on the beach, or what I look like, or how I look nose diving, I am in my world. Yesterday I went for a long surf with about 4 other people and they were talking to me and I totally wasn't paying attention to them, I was focused in my world, of me and the ocean. I was probably thinking about how clear the water was, or looking for the next wave, or how perfect the temperature was, who knows but they laughed because I was completely in my own world, and they caught me.
When I miss time when I run out there and catch a big set I almost give up and just come back in and let it go by and then go back out but most of the time I am half way and either way I go is the same distance, so I fight and get out back. Some times I am so sore I don't think I can do it much longer and then 3 hours pass by and I have to get out because I am staving not because I am tired.
The excitement that run chills down my back, gives me energy for the next wave I catch. I love when I can completely tell when and how I'm going to catch my next wave, and it comes from the confidence I get when I get those chills. Surfing has a lot to do with confidence and with commitment, because it is not going to stop for you.
The complete silence from the world, and the only thing you can hear is our board ripping through the water and the wave crashing behind you, is one of the most peaceful things I have experienced.
The ocean puts me in my happy spot, the ocean takes the world away for me. We all have a spot and need a spot like this. Yours may be behind a book, or the moment you put your running shoes on, what ever it is, do it more, you need that time for yourself. Find where the world melts away and you melt into what you are doing. You will find out how strong you are, because you have worked so hard that know you can actually appreciate it all.
